Before going further need to wish two good friends a very Happy Birthday. Kathy Tennar my friend of more years than we wish to admit and fellow cruiser Al Watson, Happy Birthday!

The passage west from Hope Town was planned for just about 200 miles so we decided to break it up into two segments, each with there own challenge. The first leg was from Hope Town to Spanish Cay which included a trip through the Whale Cut Inlet and the second crossing the Gulf Stream at night.

First through we passed through the some amazing clear water that appeared to be Star Fish central. There were everywhere for about a mile. We had never seen such a concentration of them before and as you can see the sighting was easy!

There is large bar behind Whale Cay which forces all passing vessels to go out and around the Cay. In addition the Whale can be very unforgiving when passage is poorly timed in regards to tide against wind. We timed our passage so the tide and wind went the same direction!

This particular mariner did not do as well. It is a 100 foot barge that did not successfully navigate the Whale and stands as a reminder to all who pass.

Below is are track as we passed the Whale.

After a restful night anchored at Spanish Cay it was time to get on the move.  We had a number of squalls chasing us out of the Bahamas! They came close but never did we get a drop of rain.

The Admiral at the helm and double checking our route.

The balance of our flotilla with our friends on Eleanor Q center frame.

Our plan was to cross the Little Bahmas Bank during daylight hours and then the Gulf Stream and open ocean overnight. The sun was setting as we approached the edge of the bank

We knew we were back in the USA when we came right into a traffic jam and had to wait for a large barge to enter Fort Pierce inlet before us.

After spending time in the Bahamas that has nearly zero navigation aids seeing this marker seemed quite odd!

A stroll around the deck uncovered two interlopers that caught a ride.  Sadly these two flying fish missed their connection!

We had a very successful crossing and after entering Fort Pierce Inlet we continued onto Vero Beach for a visit with my cousin Penny and a few days of R&R!

The oncoming Easter Holiday signals the beginning of the cruiser migration north and west. When you only have a week left you make the most of it. The week started with a couple mile walk out into the country and not in, but near the middle of no-where! I must confess we made two trips to “Papa Nastys BBQ.” (Hope Town Abacos) This was not the best pulled pork barbeque in the Bahamas, it was I think the best pulled pork I have tasted ANYWHERE! I have tried a fair number of places all over the south and darn this was really good!

Like I said, we descended on the place and yes that is it. A trailer with a frame around it. Mr. Nasty is center in the orange shirt, nice guy!

Our next mission was to join the Sip Sip Sot organization of Hope Town. Yes, of course it is a real organization, there are membership cards!

As you can read below there is a great humor associated with the organization, but from the little exposure we have had, they are more serious about the charity than might first be apparent. I think they try to down play the charity all the while catching a pretty fair share in the collection tray! 

Greetings Sots,

In case you have no idea why you joined this illustrious yet somewhat dubious organization, then you are definitely Sip, Sip, Sot material, and you have found a home. If you are sober enough to read this newsletter, then now is the time for us to enlighten you about the organization’s history, origins, purpose, and goals.

History

In June of 2009, four friends got together for a few sips of their beverage of choice. While enjoying their drinks and the glow of companionship they had an idea. Why not found a group that had as its purpose nothing but chatting with friends over a flagon (or wine glass, or tumbler)? A group without rules, directories, by-laws, meetings, committees, or fundraisers. Our only goal would be to gather like minded souls for the camaraderie.

Because the four friends were besotted with the idea and were sitting at the Wine Down Sip Sip, they decided that the name of this august group of friends should be the Sip Sip Sots. This was not meant as a denigrating appellation but as a lilting bit of fanciful sibilance with just a touch of alliteration.

After a few more sips we had another idea. Perhaps some of the local island establishments that sell spirits might want to solicit the good will of such a jolly group of friends. If that were the case, then the proprietors of these businesses might make it worth our while to have our gatherings with them. We mused,“might they add some time to their Happy Hour prices for us?” “Might they provide us some goodies to be nibbled whilst we sip?” Well, after some investigation, we found that The Abaco Inn, Sea Spray, and The Lodge were willing to entertain such an idea if enough of our members were in attendance. The Wine down Sip Sip also was willing to offer their establishment as a headquarters!

Goal

Our last job then, was to gather around us friends with like minds. When you joined, we asked that a fee of $5.00 be given to the founding members. This is for all their efforts, and to defray the cost of membership cards, newsletters, and rosters, and the major portion goes to Friends of Abaco Animals, a charity that provides for abandon, homeless and needy animals. This is a one time assessment for a lifetime membership (your card expires when you do).

As we were the last to depart from the weekly membership meeting, keep in mind we left at 8:30 PM, it was a successful evening! No the week was not over yet! (You are right, we really need to get on the road.) The next day was a full moon so there is the monthly dinghy raft up and drift. How this works is everyone brings a drink and a snack to share and the dinghys are lashed together. As the tide heads out the whole raft floats across the harbor till sunset.

Dick did not seem to enjoy the last round of snackage!

Our new friends from Cutting Class (Dan & Marcia) via our friends on Kindred Spirit, see how this works?

Anything look familiar? Yup that’s Magnolia in the background as we drifted past.

Our friends Frank & Mary Marie returned “home” from a trip to New Jersey so a quiet evening back at Sip Sip was in order.

Our last day in port always consist of getting the boat back ready to get underway. Taking on fuel, water and any last minute provisions. The most important thing though is getting our “heads in the game” of handling Magnolia underway.

Our upcoming passage to Florida is a little different in that it will be our longest and our first crossing of the Gulf Stream at night. Does not sound like much, but there is the appropriate level of anxiety as we prepare. See you on the other side!!!

Some of our long time readers will remember our friends on Kindred Spirit. (See 2013-09-29 Living the Moment–Class of 2013 for a refresher) We traveled part of the trip south together, but ended up going to different parts of the Bahamas. We had not planned to visit the Abacos, but the “universe” suggested a course change and we ended up coming north after all. The disappointing part of our arrival in the Abacos was we missed Al & Michele by 3 days! We each had commitments. Missing each other by 3 days was a real bummer. On the upside we will see them in a few short months in their home state of Connecticut and we are looking very forward to that visit. Our mutual friends on Eleanor Q were already in Hope Town and when we arrived. When people heard we knew Al & Michele, well we were taken in to the fold as well!

I intended to write about the VERY unique Hope Town lighthouse, but I cannot do the subject justice so I am going to ask you take a moment and read Michele’s description and history of this unique place. (Elbow Reef Lighthouse – “The Candy Striped Lighthouse”)

Welcome back. Michele does a MUCH better job than I do! I can add some of our own pictures though!

Getting back to that Universe thing. You might remember how this adventure began 5 years ago. (2013-11-05 Dealers, Enablers, “What is Possible”, All in 5 Years) Well as we are walking down the street we meet a couple and their two children. They are on S/V Taia which is a Morgan 46. Well as it turns out their boat was formally known as Liberty and owned by our friends Ty & Suzanne. This was the very first sailboat Annette and I ever set foot on and it is right here in Hope Town Harbor. Under the category of small world — unbelievable!

Magnolia really enjoyed her stay in the Exumas but the migration must continue and with the coming of spring means moving north.  After traversing up the Exuma chain we jumped across the Yellow Bank to Eleuthera, Royal Island. The passage across the Northeast Providence Channel is a 58 miles so it makes for a very full day. Of course we picked the day where there was absolutely no wind. The only waves were these 4-6 foot long duration rollers.

Something we had never seen before was this fishing boat with it herd of smaller boats. It looked like a duck with its young from a distance.

After crossing over and entering the cut at Little Harbor we dropped the hook at Lynard Cay. This was a huge day for us because it was the first time we sailed into a place where we had previously flew in an chartered a boat. The blue line is our track from a few years ago and the magenta line where we anchored this trip. What a hoot!

Lynard Cay anchorage.

Looking (and feeling) a little scruffy after a long day!

Arriving Hope Town we were given a personal escort from our friends on Eleanor Q. They even reserved a a mooring ball in the field, how great is that?

A walk along the shore before a squall comes ashore.

Magnolia moored among the hordes in Hope Town

We met the Canadian’s on our crossing of the Gulf Stream from Florida. We have been crossing paths ever since have always enjoyed their company. All of the Canadians we have met have been very very kind and inviting.

So that was our first few days in Hope Town. We will be getting into work mode for the next few days with Annette making some jerry can covers a few sewing repairs here and there and I getting some varnish on the cap rails and polish on the stainless. Just regular boat chores that need to make time for now and then!

I will get to the “play” in a moment but a little catch up. Magnolia departed Georgetown last Wednesday as expected and had a great sail up to Black Point. Winds came up and we wanted the break so we took an extra day there and caught up on Downtown Abbey episodes. Fast internet is a treat in this world!

It is always such a treat to check your anchor in the Bahamas. Just look over the side of the boat and this is likely what you will see in 15ft of water!

We made a quick motor north to Cambridge Cay which is part of the Exuma Land & Sea Park and home to the “Sea Aquarium” snorkel spot. We missed it on the way south and we were not going to pass this snorkelling highlight again.

A little more background, in the Exumas you can make passages on the “sound” (white) or on the “bank.” (blue). Sometimes you have a choice, sometimes the “bank” side is too shallow so you are forced into the sound. We like to get out on the sound whenever we can because it often makes sailing easier and has greater depths.  Then again, it often has higher winds and bigger waves. 

This is looking at O’Brien’s Cut (entrance) from the sound on the calmest day you can imagine.  We won’t show you the pictures of what it looked like when we left (the exact opposite creating a challenging morning!).

Once on the inside we were rewarded with a beautiful anchorage at Bell Island. In addition, our friends from S/V Journey (Drena and JR) were anchored there as well.

Over the last year or so we have followed S/V Journey’s (www.sailingjourney.net) blog since they were also “class of 2013/14” and also from the Chesapeake Bay.  We actually did not meet them until all the way in Vero Beach, FL in the fall. We are so impressed by this couple. They are a “little” younger than we are and have worked very hard to make their opportunity to “cruise.” The amazing thing to us is they figured this all out at an age when we did not even have a clue what “cruising” was! 

On our way to Sea Aquarium and passed Johnny Depp’s private island.  Drena swore he waved…

S/V Journey is a 1986 O’Day 35 which is nearly the same vintage as Magnolia, and although a little smaller, just as beautiful. I was very excited to finally see the water maker JR designed and built from scratch along with the flexible solar panels they installed. Note: Here is the reference to the “play.” Drena and JR were kind enough to invite us over for dinner and see Journey as well as meet their cat, Leo., and get a kitty fix. Second Note: Canvas on boats lasts a long time and what usually fails is the thread that holds said canvas together. It becomes quite weak from exposure to the sun. So as I am touring the boat, I loose my footing, slip and put my arm right through the corner of their dodger. I am horrified! Holy you know what, I want to find a hole and crawl in it! Actually I had just made one, but crawling through would only make it bigger. Annette offered to sew it but they were itching to get underway and we ended up going separate directions the next day.  Drena is an excellent Seamless Sailor, so she will have it under control soon I’m sure.  It’s bad enough to have an accident on your boat, but so much worse on someone else’s.

The picture was taken after “the shot was fired” so we are hoping that all can be forgiven! We are looking forward to seeing Journey again, hopefully they are too!

I should hardly call Brian & Patricia guests. They have crewed Magnolia many times and have earned the much coveted Magnolia Polo (There are only 6 in existence) Ron & Nancy (Mandela) invited all over for a visit and were somewhat overcome by the sea of red!

One of the benefits of having guests arrive is they are able to bring all those spare parts and one thing Magnolia needed was some replacement davit/boarding lights. I quickly got these installed since it would make it much easier (and safer) for all us to board the dinghy with plenty of light….and boy do we now have light!

First stop on the George Town tour was a visit to Chat-N-Chill. After a couple of Kaliks all the stress of travel was forgotten!

As sometimes (often) happens someone mentions during the morning net “There will be a happy hour on Sand Dollar Beach.” This is what happens, people spontaneously arrive carry’n a snack to share along with there favorite cocktail. It was fortuitous that this “sometimes” event occurred while Brian & Patricia were in town!

Ron (Mandela) and Dave even provided the evenings entertainment.

These two ladies won “prettiest pastels” on the beach award!

It was really a fun evening and a great turn out. Certainly gave Brian & Patricia to jump right into the cruiser scene!

As is often the case, we were treated to a lovely sunset.

In addition to Happy Hours on the beach, this was also kick-off for the Cruisers George Town Regatta. The kick off includes a barbque and variety show. We were anchored across harbor (1.5 miles) and the ladies were concerned they “might” get a case of dingy but. Like that is NOT gonna happen but god bless the level of commitment…yes that is a garbage bag skirt!

The Bahamas National Anthem opened the evenings event.

The “cruiser kids” (yes these kids live onboard and are “boat school”) even did a rendition of “Cups.” There is a YouTube video that evidently went viral and this is a cover of that. The kids did a GREAT job. Can you imagine growing up as one of these kids. They will grow up know NOTHING is beyond their reach. How terrific is that????????

Brian and Patricia enjoy the show!

Dave from last nights Beach Happy Hour entertains a little larger crowd this evening. He is an exceptional guitarist!

No evening would be complete without a visit from the Blues Brothers!

These are the mothers of the “Cup Kids” and they did come fabulously funny covers such as “The Truck is Broke, Propane”, “Pick a Working Channel” along with “Here’s My Boat Card, Call Me Maybe?”

The Rake & Scrape Band closed the evening and the crowd took advantage with some fun dancing.

Sadly hardly before we finally got the week started but it was over.

So sadly we loaded our friends aboard their taxi to the airport and look forward to seeing them in the spring when we return to the Chesapeake.

This was also the week we parted ways with Ron & Nancy on Mandela. They are continuing on south. We have been traveling with Mandela & Eleanor Q for a while now and their company will be sorely missed. We VERY much look forward to seeing them, sooner than later! “Be Safe WF, we will miss you!”

Sadly the same evening we were saying our temporary good byes to Eleanor Q a wave washed over my pocket as we were departing the beach. In that pocket was our primary camera so that accounts for few pictures this week Replacement is on the way.  In the meantime I am depending on the Admirals phone camera and photo donations from Mandela. Speaking of, what is better than having a buddy boat with a couple if former professional fisherman. Nothing, notta, it does not get any better!

With the departure of Eleanor Q it was time for the remaining WF to head for a some new scenery. Based solely on the direction of the wind we decided a 50 mile hop over to Cat Island was in order. After a little reading it was decide on off we went on a beautiful beam reach. This was a day sailor dream of!

Yes those numbers are in feet DEEP! There is no way to capture in a picture the true deep blue of the water in that crossing.

More about Nancy and Ron. Before our friend Nancy went off and became one of those CEO corporate types she and Ron fished commercially on the east coast and later in Alaska. As they know a thing or two about this fishing stuff when they said they had lines lines out on our approach to Cat Island I ran down and grabbed my hand line adding a big lime green skirted thing. Low and behold as we came up on the flat off Cat Island I hooked a nice like Jack.

Since yield is so important Ron was nice enough to handle the knife work to ensure we had dinner for four. He yielded more filet than we imagined.

We visited the Hermitage a top of Mt. Alvernia. “The Hermitage was constructed by Father Jerome Hawes.  Father Jerome was a Catholic priest and a trained architect who lived from 1876 to 1956.  He spent the last 17 years of his life on Cat Island and in addition to constructing the Hermitage also constructed a number of other churches throughout the Bahamas include two in Clarence Town, Long Island.” The complete article can be found here: http://shanepinder.com/blog/2008/10/17/the-hermitage-mt-alvernia-cat-island-bahamas/

(Pictures courtesy S/V Mandela)

After a couple days at the New Bight anchorage we moved the boats over to Fernandez Bay home to a lovely little resort.

As it was time for a nice dinner off the boat we joined the current residents of the resort for pre-dinner happy hour at the honor bar followed by a dinner from Cracked Lobster and all the sides.

As we are chatting with the current guests we meet a couple that have a boat at our home marina in the Chesapeake Bay. What a small world it is!

Never wanting to miss the opportunity to explore the mangroves we hopped in the dinghies and off we went, up a creek with a paddle. It was not long till we needed that paddle.

In fact, we did a lot of dragging of dinghies on this particular adventure. This was taken at the furthest point inland and I was feeling a little whooped!

Cat Island was great get away but it was time to get back across to George Town to start guest preparations!

We did make time to celebrate Valentines Day on Volleyball Beach dinging at the fabulous Chat-N-Chill. We also got to spend time with friends we had met in Bimini, Gwen and Guillaume from S/V Slow Waltz

(L-R Ron, Nancy and Gwen)

Now it time to get to work and hide all the “stuff” we have been hiding in out guest bunk so our guests actually have a place to sleep. We will see how it goes!!!

If you think George Town Bahamas is more like “Adult Day Care” than anything, well you might be right. The day starts at 08:00 with the morning Radio Net on the two-way radio. There are several sections “Any Emergency or Priority Traffic,” “weather,” ‘Local Business,” “Community Announcements,” ”Boaters General.” By the end of the 30 min radio presentation you know which business is having a sale, what time the bake sale fund raiser for the local school starts, what time softball practice starts, when and where yoga will start and information on where to get that part you need and how to install it. That is just the tip if the iceberg and Annette does a great job of keeping up notes on what is happening and where.

The first of MY weeks activities was the discussion/seminar on boat batteries and charging systems. For many boats the Bahamas is the first time being off the grid (not in a marina with shore power) so there is a lot to keeping your boat powered up and your beer cold. That’s really the risk, warm beer!

As you can see the event was very well attended and the classroom is pretty cool too!

This picture did not come out as well but this was the site of the HAM Radio Seminar. I have been studying for my Tech and might try the General Test as well. Think of my n 20 Feb!

A quick view of downtown George Town

Annette belongs to a Facebook Group called “Woman Who Sail” and there have been a couple of different meet ups that we have enjoyed attending.

(Right to Left, MaryMarie (Eleanor Q), Annette (Magnolia) Nancy (Mandela)

As most readers know we have been blessed to share a huge portion of this trip with our friends on Eleanor Q. Sadly it is time for them to start heading north. We have shared the challenges and successes and we VERY much look forward to seeing them sooner than later. Fair-Winds our dear friends, be safe!

No silly that is NOT a shark, but you have to love an anchorage with a dolphin. Actually this was a family of 3 and the little tike was cute as a speckled pup on Christmas morning! .

This is the entrance into Lake Victoria in George Town. The passage is so tiny only one dinghy can pass at a time. Inside though lies a medium size lake. When the wind is up, entering gets pretty exciting. Inside it becomes calm instantly.

Between Magnolia, our friends on EleanorQ and Mandela we get together to eat quite often. On the way to Mandela this picture just needed to be taken!

L-R MaryMarie (Eleanor Q), Nancy (Mandela) and Magnolia’s Admiral, Annette.

L-R (Add) Ron (Mandela) and Frank (Eleanor Q)

In spite of the previous evening’s festivities, the crowd takes off to hike from Sand Dollar Beach to Chit-Chat for lunch. (Here’s a secret some know already – you can’t hike there or its REALLY hard!)

Along the way Frank decides to test the local OSHA regulations.

The hike does afford a lovely beach walk.

We finally dinghy over to the famous Chat&Chill where the Rays have come in for lunch. We are told they prefer Conch, out of the shell. Who wouldn’t?

The Chat&Chill area is also known as Volleyball Beach or more aptly, “Adult Day Care.” Everything from Sunday morning non-denomination church services, to basket weaving, to yoga classes, boat technical discussions and even administration of the HAM Radio licenses happens here. Some cruisers come to George Town for the winter an travel no where else.

Of course there is dance night where a DJ spins all kinds of Classic Rock till well into the night. (I think they stack the records at 9pmish) Here the gang warms up on the sand before hitting the main deck.

Tomorrow, Magnolia is going to take us a couple miles down to a quiet anchorage at Red Shanks.

After spend a wonderful few days at Warderick Wells we were eager to make it to Georgetown but made not before making a couple of stops. While Mandalay stopped for some additional snorkeling Magnolia and Eleanor Q stopped in Staniel Cay. 

After a brief visit to town the main attraction was the swimming pigs. Yup, swimming pigs! It was a little overcast and the air cool so I am not thinking this guy was that enthusiastic.

When his blond buddy showed up he was thinking I am off the swimming gig today. Then there must have been a toss of the coin and….

brown piggy lost the toss. So….

Yea, see I am swam now I am getting the heck out of this water have a great day tourists!!!

Out next stop was Black Point where our arrival coincided with the Church Fund Raiser Barbeque. One my favorite things over the years and many visit to the Bahamas was to find the Barbeque…they are always going on and some of the best food served in the islands!

Somehow these two are always color coordinated!

As we were departing Black Point Mandala passed heading out the cut at Black Point. They wanted to do some fishing on the way to Farmers Cay.

We all met up a few miles down the Exuma island chain at Little Farmer’s Cay. We spent a couple days here and I REALLY liked the vibe here. I am truthfully not sure why but it just felt comfortable and we had a couple of really good local meals during our visit.

(L-R Magnolia, Mandala, Eleanor Q) 

(Magnolia at rest)

While we were relaxing the Seamless Sailor was preparing and article I think on Lee-Cloths. When underway at sea we can make the setees up as beds and the Lee-Cloths hold you in place and provide a more restful sleep.

(L-R Magnolia – Mandala)

(ditto)

After a couple of days, it was time to move on. Next stop, Georgetown, Bahamas.