Before we move onto Charleston happenings one more visit to our anchorage at Dewees Creek.  Below is panorama of our anchorage. The photo hardly captures the serene beauty we were able to experience.

We anchored in Dewees Creek to position Magnolia to take fullest advantage of the high tides to avoid some significant shoaling in the Intercostal Waterway (ICW) just prior to arriving in Charleston Harbor.

We arrived in Charleston about mid tide and with tides of 6 feet and currents of 3 knots we wanted to kill a couple of hours before going into our marina so we headed Magnolia for a tour of the Charleston Harbor starting with Fort Sumter. It was quite an experience.

After a visit to Fort Sumter we headed up the Cooper River along the eastern shore of Charleston proper.

I did not realize that the aircraft carrier USS Yorktown is moored in Charleston.

We eventually settled into our slip on the western shore of Charleston, cleaned Magnolia and caught on some R&R. This morning we met up with our friend Mims whom we met in the Bahamas and visited in Savannah and here in Charleston. After our visit we went for a lovely walk around historic Charleston visiting the City Market and my favorite men’s store in the whole world, M Dumas & Sons! 

We had not previously noticed but Magnolia has a bit of ICW mustache from the tannins in the water found there.

A few errands and chores tomorrow and then off to dinner. Its going to be a great Monday!

Magnolia has been playing cat and mouse with the tides and temperatures, but it appears we have both on the run as of this writing. The picture below shows the scenery we have been looking at recently. We are definitely in Cypress Tree and Spanish Moss territory!

Under the category of things you see on the Intercostal Waterway (ICW) this is a pretty big one. There are golf courses on each side of the canal and the I think the cable cars carry you back and forth between “front half” and the “back half.” This might top the swimming sea monster deer! Nah nothing tops a swimming deer!

With the knowledge we were in for a spanking (high winds and low temperatures), we went to our go-to resources, Active Captain and On The Water Chart Guides. Both pointed us to Osprey Marina on the ICW just above the Waccamaw River.  We read that it was well protected, but we had no idea until we arrived. I had to grab a photo off of Google Earth.  Even in this protected area we saw gusts of over 30 knots.

Of course after the front passed and the temperatures dropped I had to “scrape the frost” before we departed. It was a little nuts but we quickly got underway and soon enough the sun warmed the boat nicely. 

We actually had our highest mileage day of the trip, 55nm. As we had departed at a falling tide from Osprey we were able to ride the falling tide all the way down the Waccamaw until we reached the ICW and road the reversing tide down the ICW another 20 miles. It was what we call a “sleigh ride.”  It makes for a pretty easy day even if it was a long one.

We met Eleanor Q in the anchorage and had a fine dinner of grilled hamburgers aboard Magnolia.

Magnolia is timing the tides against the areas that have become shoaled in, so today was a relatively short day of 16 miles. We positioned ourselves to take advantage of tomorrow’s morning tide to hopefully make it through one of the most heavily-shoaled areas of the ICW. We took advantage of a anchorage that we expected to have completely to ourselves.

Midway into the anchorage we found out otherwise. The “landlord” came to check out and see who was coming in.

Yup it the landlord! The place belongs to him!

As I was preparing the anchor he came up to get a closer look to make sure we were on the up and up. I offered him a beer, he declined.

S

The Admiral maintained a vigilant watch for the landlord who paced along the anchorage a couple of times, but he declined a dinner invitation.

I figured he certainly would like to share a cigar and a scotch which was a recent gift from a friend. Still not a taker…oh well. Thank you Neptune and your residents for sharing the beauty of this place with us. We appreciate it more than you could ever know!

We will be arriving in Charleston tomorrow to hopefully reconnect with some friends we met years ago in the Bahamas and await the arrival of our friends Jack & Kathy from New Jersey. We suspect they are coming for a “health & welfare” inspection fearing we have completely off our rockers with this adventure! Wish us luck with the shoals tomorrow.

Reality is setting in. There are times when I am really good about blog and other times not so good. Magnolia dashed across latitude 36N on the 1st of November. Our insurance kept us north of that line because of risk of hurricane. In addition we needed to have a small repair accomplished on the autopilot. Thanks to a recommendation from www.activecaptain.com we were able to locate the appropriate facility in Belhaven, NC and things were fixed up in before we had time to get too settled in.  In addition our friends Greg & Marie aboard Second Sally caught up with Magnolia. We sailed together for a couple days. It was great to catch up time! About the same time Eleanor! rejoined us from their days at the spa (inside joke). They did look well rested though.

The “fleet” made an easy passage down to Beaufort Inlet. It was a fun day to be near old and new friends! There were dolphins everywhere as we approached Morehead City and Beaufort Inlet. The crazy thing is how hard it is to get a decent picture of these guys. They do not seem to be too keen on pictures!

We took this picture approaching one of the many swing bridges we go through everyday. I think the picture does a pretty good job of capturing the best of the best feelings we have! Lucky!

We have yet to figure the significance of a Giraffe statue along the ICW but we can only assume there is one. We saw a Zebra in Galesville, MD and now this Giraffe in North Carolina. Can hardly wait to see what we find in South Carolina. As long as its not a Gator we are good!

We always know its going to be a good day when the sun is shining on our Angel. Thank you Aunt Jeanette! It is one of several “treasures” we carry aboard Magnolia.

Magnolia  enter Mile Hammock anchorage which is actually owned by the Marine Corp at Camp Lejeune. Anchor, but don’t think about going ashore!

Our first opportunity to take a walk on a beach. Wrightsville Beach was really nice but just wait a couple of months for the Exumas!!

Frank & MaryMarie from S/V Eleanor Q on the beach.

Southport water front with the tallest flag staff I have ever seen!

Pete Saunders a colleague from my Honeywell days came out with his son to witness our arrival to the Myrtle Beach area. 

Below is the shot Pete took as we passed. It is how the world see us!

We are not certain but think this pipe is the border mark for North & South Carolina.

Pete Saunders came out to Magnolia for a visit. It was a fun evening catching up!

Magnolia is at dock right now riding out this freakish flash freeze. We hope the worst will be through today and will head out towards Georgetown, SC in the morning.

Vessel and crew are well, be safe, A**2

This is a particularly special day for Annette and me as it was 5 years ago today that either of us had ever stepped foot on a sailboat. With the help of “Dealers” and “Enablers” we are, as we like to say, a demonstration of what is possible. 

Since Annette and I were married in 2004 we have always known we wanted to do “something” besides work and live, but we had no idea what that might be. That all changed on November 5th, 2008. Ty and Suzanne Giesemann (aka “Dealers”) had just retired again to take off on their sailboat “Liberty.” Before they departed the area,  they were kind enough to invite us out for a “harmless” afternoon sail on the Chesapeake Bay and dinner at this new restaurant in Annapolis they referred to as “Chez Liberty.” 

(Ty prepares for departure)

(Suzanne suggested Annette take the helm for a while)

(“Wow this sailing thing is pretty cool!” BTW, last time I was ever this “dressed” on a sailboat or wore a Blackberry on my belt)

After our day on Liberty and many email discussions with Ty and Suzanne, we decided to charter a sailboat and skipper to take us for a long weekend sail in Key Biscayne, FL. We wanted one more opportunity to back away before we completely lost our minds and got after this sailing thing.  

In the end we were lost causes and returned to Washington focused on how to turn this idea into reality. Heck, I am a Missile Monkey, you buy a book of course! After that you start at the bottom of any project and work your way up.  In our case we joined the Pentagon Sailing Club and working with our new friend, Patricia Peters, we sanded the bottom of the clubs 22ft Catalina sailboats. As you can see, bottom paint is blue. That was the only the beginning for we quickly signed up for the club’s “Basic Keel Boat” training.

(Graduation Day)

(First Solo Sail)

Literally the day after we graduated Annette and I borrowed one of the club boats and did our first “solo” sail. We will never forget it. The weather was a little aggressive for newbies and damn if we did not tangle the jib. None the less we sailed up and down the river on just the main sail. We were on our way!

As our luck would have it Ty and Suzanne were on their way back through town on Liberty and heading for Block Island, RI. They were kind enough to invite us to crew on the adventure.

As you can see on our departure Aeolus (Greek God of Wind) sent us on our way!

This picture of Ty and Suzanne looking at the charts always cracks me up. I visualize Ty coming to his senses and saying to Suzanne, “We can probably dump them here and be rid of them!” I only jest because they are patient with newbies aboard!

Gretchen and Rudy kept a very close watch on us. They were not use to strangers on board, but they were completely welcoming the entire time!

Though we planned to sail all the way to Block Island we learned our first lesson of boating — there is no such thing as a schedule. The weather is your master, accept it and live with it. We made it as far as Atlantic Highlands near Sandy Hook, NJ before we needed to pull the plug on the journey. None the less what an experience!

About the same time as Ty and Suzanne were sailing off, Greg (of Greg and Marie) (aka “Enablers”) started working with me at the office. Ty and Greg had know each other when they were both sailing in the Mediterranean and so it was only natural Greg would come in to replace Ty. The only surprise was that little did Greg know he and Marie inherited Annette and me too!

Knowing their boat was currently more “home” than “sailboat” I offered, “hey we don’t have a boat, but we can get one of the club Catalinas if you and Marie want to get underway.” There was not a second of pause and in spite of the weather off we went! As the picture shows, it was pouring rain, but we still had a good time.

Annette and I continued our training with the Pentagon Sailing Club making trips to St Michaels and organizing a super fun event we referred to “The Poor Man’s Regatta.” All the while Greg and I talked sailing on a daily basis. The whole time he was making me think.  What is the thought process when it comes to sailing and boats? Those discussions formed the basis on which we operate Magnolia today.

Annette and I joined the Seven Sea Cruising Association and attended the annual meeting held near Annapolis, MD. Ty was the President of the SSCA then so we had the opportunity to spend time with Ty that weekend as well

Annette and I continued our training and involvement in the PSC. We were awarded the most improved sailor’s award at the 2009 Annual Banquet.

It was important to Annette and me that we obtain our American Sailing Association (ASA) credentials. We spent months studying and building our skills with the help of the PSC. We travelled to the British Virgin Islands and sailed with Capt. Pat Nolan of Sistership for a week of exams and testing.

While much of the action was taking place in the mid-Atlantic, Ty and Suzanne were at their home in Florida thinking “boy, sure glad we are only “dealers” and not “enablers”. Poor Greg and Marie!” That all came to an end when Annette and I asked them to come look at a boat with us since they were in Florida and so was the boat. I will never forget looking at this Kelly Peterson with Greg on the phone asking me to look at specific things and Ty thumping away on the deck checking for rot and Annette and Suzanne peppering the salesman with questions. I swear he was on the verge of giving us the boat. 

None the less we eventually found “Wind Fetish” aka “Magnolia” with Ty and Suzanne’s help evaluating her. She is our 1990 Morgan 44 from Tampa Bay FL.

(Annette takes the helm during the survey and inspects the hull)

We have a problem, the boat is in Florida and it needs to be in Virginia. From the movie, “Who ya gonna call? ‘Enablers’ of course.” I will confess here and now that I cannot recount this part of the story with a dry eye. Keep in mind we had no idea the scope of the help we were asking for. We asked Greg and Marie if they would “sail with us for 2 weeks to bring our sailboat to the Chesapeake?” In hindsight and I know what Greg heard at the time was “will you please work like dogs for a couple of weekends in Florida before we leave? Then just before we leave go down a couple of days before us to make final preps and sail for at least 10 days, 1000 miles, sometimes 100 miles offshore on a boat you have no history with and a crew that does not have a clue? He and Marie readily took on the challenge.  And we are still friends!

(I look at this picture often and vowed never to be the guy watching and soon as we got Magnolia home I spent every moment I could learning about her – AND spent hours pestering Greg via phone/email on “stuff” which I still do to this day.)

Many may not beware, but you simply cannot rename a boat, you have to ask permission from the gods of the sea and wind and only perform such an act with appropriate pomp and circumstance.  When we acquired her, she was referred to as “Wind Fetish” which just did not work for us. The name Magnolia comes from Annette’s mother, Orpha. Her favorite tree was a large Magnolia that grew in the family yard in Falls Church, Virgina.  As stated by our friend, Jill Roberts, “Magnolias are relatively easy to grow and pest free – isn’t that what you want in a boat?” With that simple logic we knew we would name our boat S/V Magnolia.  A proper renaming ceremony and party was held June 2011.

The next year S/V Second Sally (Greg and Marie’s Boat) along with S/V Magnolia made a “cruise” south to St Mary’s, MD

(The real treat and perhaps what this “life” is really about is about, was being able to introduce our new sailing friends to our old sailing friends – Mike and Tina Moreau)

In the spring of 2013, Annette and I quit our jobs, readied our house, and called Magnolia “home.” Below are our friends, all of us “Class of 2013” (first timers heading south one way or another). All the stories are different, yet similar.

I can not speak for all of the class, but for Annette and I simply feel so very, very privileged to being doing this.  We have had much help from many along the way, yet  without our “Dealers” and  “Enablers.” we would not be here. We are so very, very grateful to you. Thank you so very much Greg, Marie, Ty and Suzanne.

VR

A**2

Magnolia and crew crossed the Albemarle Sound from Elizabeth City and made anchorage in South Lake off the Alligator River. It was a lovely place, we saw no other boat or person for 24 hours Keep in mind we are in the midst of migration season so to have an anchorage to ourselves you know we must have been off the beaten path. It was a challenge to navigate our way in but it was lovely. We intended to stay in South Lake through the approaching front cycle we are entering but with a weather window to move further south and the words of my friend Greg in my ears, “make hay when the sun shines” we quickly got Magnolia moving south. Soon after getting underway we approached the Alligator River Bridge. Below is what we see when closing in on a bridge.

The Admiral usually does the radio talking since it seems a female voice generally gets a better response and this was no exception. Annette called the bridge on the VHF radio and of course we got a quick opening.

This sign indicates that we are 85 statute (not nautical) miles down the Inter Coastal Waterway (ICW). For reference mile 0 is in Portsmouth, VA.

Its always good to remember that this is not actually the “Love Boat” sailing off to white sand beaches. Somedays we actually get some pretty crappy weather. This is not one of them but just a reminder.

We do have a full enclosure and stay completely warm and dry on days like these.

Just about the time the sun came out I observed what I thought was a Sea Monster in the canal. I literally had to slow the boat or I would have hit the poor creature. 

Watching this guy cross and climb out on the other side really was pretty amazing.

This is a “un-restricted” bridge meaning it is fixed height and we can go under at anytime. The downside of the bridges is the actually height is governed by how high the water is, As you can see there is a little gauge showing how much clearance we have, I generally grab the binoculars and verify if there is any question on clearance. Magnolia requires 58 ft.

The picture below was taken from our track map available at (http://a2baker.com/magnoliablog/?page_id=1602). The trip from South Lake to our current anchorage in the Pungo River was 45 nm miles which took us right at 8 hours. We had a bit more current in the canal than I anticipated.

We are anchored deep up the Pungo River until sunday when we will make the short 10 mile hop over to Belhaven Waterway Marina (www.belhavenmarina.com/) to have small Autopilot problem resolved hopefully on Monday.

On our last day in Edenton we visited the Cupola House and Gardens. You were actually able to climb all the way to the Cupola for a wonderful view of the surrounding area. If you look closely you can see Magnolia’s mast above the trees center, right hand side of photo.

That evening we attended a wine tasting where we met a number of the locals who filled us even more on the town of Edenton.

Sadly it was time to leave and we were off to Elizabeth City NC. It was one of those long haul (50mile) days that we try and avoid but we made it just fine.

On the upside our friends MaryMarie and Frank from Eleanor Q (http://eleanorq.wordpress.com/) were there to meet us. It was great fun catching up with them. Like us they are members of the Inter-Coastal Waterway (ICW) Class of 2013. It is always great exchanging ideas, lessons and experiences. So much to learn!

The town of Elizabeth City sponsor a nice happy hour every day at the city dock. It is a great place to meet up with the cruisers and obtain great information about the town. The effort is much appreciated, “Thanks Elizabeth City.”

After hearing about Edenton Eleanor Q got underway there for a visit this morning.

Magnolia will be underway in the morning to head across the Albemarle for the Alligator River. We will remain at anchor there for a couple of days and then continue our trip south. 

Before we get going on the house tour check out our “Chariot” provided by the fine town of Edenton. As part of the benefit for taking a slip in Edenton, in addition to hot showers you get to sign out a truck to run errands such as grocery and laundry both about 3 miles away., both good experiences.

Above and below, same home, can not decide which door is front and which is back?

We were told this home recently sold for 1.4M but that was before the renovation to include the bowling alley in the basement!

Below is the towns former ice house that has been converted to a one (1) bedroom, one (1) bath home. This is one my absolute favorites. This place must be solid as a rock.

Below is a 60s modernistic home which Annette liked a lot. She particularly likes the fact that you can look in the front door right out to the water. It really did look interesting.

We want that screened in porch (someday).

As we returned from our afternoon adventure we were able to watch Elizabeth II arrive for a weekend visit.

All day Friday classroom after classroom of local kids toured the ship. You tell they really had a great time! Can not wait to see the lines of adults on Saturday. Crazy part was the number of crewman who came over to visit Magnolia cause they saw a “great looking boat over here!”

After plodding from many of the locals Annette and I crossed the bridge and went around the gate which said “Private Property” onto Hayes Plantation.

We walked for a couple of miles along manicured country road finally coming across a cemetery where famous locals James Johnston.

Safely back on “public” lands we came across this bell with the words “U.S.L.H Establishment 1901.” This one took some Google work to nail and the only thing I could get was “United States Light House.”

Edenton is a town of 5000, and surrounding county is 15,000 total population. In spite of the relative size there is so much going on here. We departed Magnolia last evening stopping at an artists exhibit at the City Art Council Office right next to the dock. There much have been 40 people enjoying a pleasant evening with the artist over wine and appetizers. That was our first stop as our primary goal was the Edenton Coffee House for an evening of live music. The evening really is a family experience with no alcohol there are plenty of kids and people of every imaginable age. Half of the attendees seem to know each other and people kept coming with folding chairs in the aisles. There must have been at least 75 people there. Speaking with an employee she related it was like this most Fridays nights. She said there are few regulars but because of the different music genres that play in attracts different people every week. Really amazing evening!

Tonight we are attending  a monthly event at the “Edenton Bay Trading Company”. It is purported to be a wine tasting but is really known for the local dishes served. We are really looking forward!

I am so amazed by this town, we left the boat at 1800 on our way to an evening of music

To say we are enjoying our stay in Edenton would be an understatement. I am on a first name basis with the guys at the local TrueValue hardware store and the fact that its 2 blocks from the town dock is a huge plus. Walking on the streets here you cannot pass someone without or giving a greeting.  Its truly is a special little place! Everywhere you turn there is a little (or big) hidden garden or an interesting home to view.

Magnolia is really enjoying being at the town dock too. She got a good bath and a number of “maintenance actions” since we have arrived.

Edenton might be a small town but there is little lacking. We stopped at a small independent coffee shop that served every special coffee a Starbucks would. In addition there is even the tiny Taylor movie theater where we saw “Gravity” and “Capt. Phillips” starts Friday. Again a couple blocks from the town dock.

Last evening we had dinner at the “Waterman’s Grill” which was a nice treat after a full day of boat chores.

We took a trolley ride of historic town area this afternoon and will be celebrating 9 years tonight at another restaurant called “Bistro 309”. We are keeping busy taking care of Magnolia and sightseeing while we wait for November 1st when we can continue south! Can’t wait cause the are is starting to cool down!

 “One of America’s Prettiest Towns” and Edenton does not lie!

Magnolia departed Broad Creek which is off the North River near Albemarle Sound on Sunday. We delayed our departure one (1) day to take advantage of a forecast north wind which we road under sail most of the way west across the sound. He sailed under a double reefed main, a “handkerchief” jib in 17-25 making 5.5 – 7.0 all the way across.

Our Automatic Identification System (AIS) is real life. When we about 7 miles apart from the pictured barge and using our I AIS system I could see that Magnolia and the barge were going to be under that bridge within 1 minute of each other. As you can see from the pictures that would have been a bad plan. We simply made a wide sweep north and allowed the barge to move on through. No fuss no muss!

We were very much looking forward to visiting Edenton based on what we read. Even before we tied Magnolia up we could see we were not going to be disappointed. The homes appeared absolutely lovely as we approached.

The town goes to a great deal of effort to provide secure pleasant in-expensive facilities. Granted out visit was pretty late in the season but we had the place to ourselves! 

After traveling 292.88nm since departing Galesville our girl is looking pretty good!

We will write more once we explore town further than the local Dairy Queen, though that alone nearly made the trip worthwhile!

After transiting our first lock, a few bridges, crossing the boarder into North Carolina, , saying “see you soon next time” to Kindred Spirit and performing boat maintenance in “exotic locations,” it was certainly  full week.

(This is one of my favorite pictures of all time. When I took it we were in the middle of the channel. Reagan’s “Trust but Verify” screams out to me when it comes to chart plotters!)

(Mile 50 of the Intercostal Water Way – we still have a ways to go!)

(Welcome to North Carolina, Please enjoy your stay) – Photo Kindred Spirit

(After a long day on the water – we had wonderful dinner aboard Kindred Spirit)

– Photo Kindred Spirit

After moving the boats a couple miles from Buck Island to Broad Creek it was time for a little exploring. We stumbled across a small creek/canal that had the theme song of “Deliverance” coming from it.  How could we resist?

(I told Al & Michelle there family would get this picture if we did not make it out)

(We would not have wanted them to go on their own!) – Photo Kindred Spirit

Kindred Spirit got underway to continue their trip south while Annette and get some chores done and a little more sight seeing.  First was to get the chores taken care of. First thing to be conquered was wooden stoop step into the cockpit. The varnish was terrible and I just had not made time to tackle it. Primarily because I did not know how I was going to get it off. See the builder or a previous owner did not want it to fall off so in addition to the screws they used some caulk/adhesive just to be sure. I was certain I was going to crack the wood before I got it off, but the Lucky Duck emerged!  I was not prepared to start the varnish but at least know I can get the thing off when I am ready!

I have been having a small test of will with a leaky deck drain but today I am feeling confident that a new cover and a little Butyl Tape will resolve the problem once and for all!

Meanwhile the Admiral (aka Seamless Sailor) busily working on sewing projects.

(Seamless Sailor displaying todays accomplishments, chart cover, a repaired flag and a repaired swim platform cover.)

(Evening moon rise as I was manning the grill)

Magnolia expects to stay here in Broad Creek until Sunday when we pan to sail about 25 miles west to Edenton, NC. The town is suppose to have a historical significance, I just don’t know what that is yet….will let you know! Until then, be safe A**2

PS Kindred Spirit, you are missed!