This winter has been all about “different” places! Two of those are Brunswick and Bluffton as well. Brunswick struck us as town that has struggled and it SLOWLY finding its footing.
I have not seen a store front like this since way way back! Something familiar here…
Our visit coincided with MV Arion ( Al & Arleen) . It was great to catch up. Their boat hull number and Magnolia are very close, making them very close relatives. One of the fun things was a visit to Richland Distillery ( https://www.richlandrum.com/ )
Re-purposed Bus Station
Rum Distillery
Similar to other southern towns…Brunswick comes with it share of park squares.
This is one I definitely did not know
Our next stop was Bluffton, SC, again a new port of call for Magnolia. The trip to Bluffton is a 8 mile trip up the May River and as we found well worth it. We have a number of friends that live here so look forward to more visits.
The anchorage at Bluffton is very nice with the town on one shore and a lovely marsh land to the other shore. Granted upon our arrival we were greeted with this “little” thunderstorm.
Silly me did not take more pictures of town. But a lovely town for sure!
In a surprise, our friend Debra from SV Kelly-Nicole was back in the US from Grenada. It was great to catch up. We also had the opportunity have dinner with Winnie & Jerry from the Pentagon Sailing Club. Silly me yapping and no pictures! Arghh
As we departed the May River we passed Hilton Head island and gave SV Exuberant a hady wave!
After catching our breath in Jacksonville, technically Mayport we headed up the ICW to Cumberland Island GA. One of our top stops along the ICW.
Lots of work being done on Navy Ships along the St Johns RiverFirst time I have had a good view of a Littoral Combat Ship. Actually has nice lines.
Many people speak poorly of the ICW even referring to it as a mud-puddle. We enjoy the relaxed pace and have the patience to successfully transit without a lot of stress. We just pull over and drop the anchor. An example is the notoriously bad shoaling near Fernandina Beach. We knew would have high tide the next morning so we just pulled over, fired the BBQ and spent a lovely evening. The next morning we transited the area with no fuss or musss. The most dangerous thing on a boat???? A schedule….
We have for years gotten in the habit of anchoring near the south end of Cumberland Island also known as “SeaCamp.” Keeping with this years mantra of trying new things we went up to the north end of the island to an area known as Plumb Orchard.
As we dropped the hook the welcoming committee came out to greet us. I was extra careful to stay on the boat while I was dropping the anchor.
We had a lovely visit and met up with a volunteer docent who came all the way from Washington State to volunteer there.
Returning from the Bahamas is always bittersweet but the passage planning usually forces us to ignore the sting of departing. A trip across the gulf stream is not something we take lightly no matter what the forecast is. We are little greedy as well. See we dont just want to cross it….we want to ride it! There is always a little trepidation.
The below image show the temperature difference of the surrounding water. The section we want to ride is that deepest darkest red. I am always in awe of the shear amount of energy contained in that flowing water. We are able to track the temperature of the water we are in and we can clearly see a 4 or 5 degree temperature increase as we enter the strongest part of th stream. In addition the stream flows at 3-4 knots so every hour you are in we pick that as extra. When you consider we only travel at about 6 knots that is nearly a 40% increase in our “speed over ground.” That is HUGE. The ride though does not come free. That amount of energy is definitely going to churn the water we are traveling in ALOT! Not to mention all that warm water turns into warm humid air which can turn into a really fierce thunderstorm in short order! When we do these kind of passages we really do need to have our head in the game.
First though we have to get out of the Bahamas. Part of our ritual is to ALWAYS spend the night before in a quiet anchorage where we can have extra time to take a good look over Magnolia and make sure she and we are ready to go. It also gives us the opportunity to enjoy a Bahamas farewell sunset.
We awoke about 4am and headed out across the banks. The trip across the banks is about 50 miles of 15 foot deep crystal clear water with a sandy bottom. On a moonlit night you can easily see the bottom passing underneath Magnolia.
55 Mile Crossing of the Banks
We departed the banks in the early afternoon and by sunset had entered the gulf stream proper.
Note the Speed-Over-Ground (SOG) is indicating over 10 knots! “Please keep your arms and legs inside the vessel at all times. Remain in your seats and keep your seat-belt safely secured…thank you” Though it was a lovely sunset you can see curtains of rain falling on the edges. Just a little warning from mother nature.
An no, we are not alone. Here is a cruise ship probably heading for Nassau from Florida. Range about 8 or 9 miles.
And here he is crossing our bow at about 3 miles after kindly adjusting his course to further avoid us.
Reality always sets in when you depart the gulfstream and your vessels speed significantly decreases. In addition there is always an hour of extra turbulence when departing the stream. There is a huge amount of friction between the two masses water which stirs things up.
As were approaching MOA (the buoy marking the beginning of the channel) Jacksonville I throttled up for some reason…and…nothing happened…no increase in RPMs. No decrease either but unnerving nonetheless. The obvious problem would be a fuel filter clogged. We have three and easy to check two, but the third is a bit more involved and not something I wanted to be doing at the end of a 40 hour passage. With the exception of not being able to go faster we seemed fine. I called our TowBoat service, made them aware of the situation and they sent a boat out to meet us JUST in case.
There was the other complication as we were coming into Jacksonville. Though the picture is rather dramatic to look at…we were pretty confident none of the bad stuff would get us before arriving at the dock…which was indeed the case. You can see the towboat ahead of us. My friend Al saw the picture and immediately wanted to know why a dock line was out when were supposed to be anchoring (had not at this point shared the complications) but we have some very wise mariner friends!!!
We had called Morning Star Marina Fuel dock just inside the inlet at Mayport and they could have not been nicer. They got us settled knowing we had just had a long passage and were beat.
We quickly got the “third” fuel filter changed and ready to go. The dock this close to the main St Johns River shipping channel did make for some interesting moments!
It was nice to be “home.’ Mentally it is just a lot easier to be here than in the Bahamas. We have all the support systems we need here. While we are in the Bahamas we just do not have access to emergency medical or the parts supplies. The Admiral enjoys her time in the Bahamas and I, well I don’t mind a dock along the St Johns river…next, heading up the coast.
Departing Eleuthera we woke up very early (03:00) in the morning so we went a ahead and got underway. Crossing the Northeast Providence Channel is no small thing. We consider it the “biggest” water we operate on. We have crossed the 50 miles of open ocean in swells so large the entire mast of companion boats disappeared. It is really something to experience. There is nothing to break the waves between here and the coast of Portugal. Note also the depth here can get to 15,000 feet…yes 15. No matter how small the waves are, when water depth goes from that deep to sea level, rest assured “stuff” is going to happen.
Before heading for the open ocean though there was the little matter of extracting ourselves from out anchorage off Royal Island transiting the cut between Egg and Little Egg Island. We had a little moon and been through here in the daylight before so extra attention brought us out in no drama.
The passage to the Abacos was one our best through here and our early departure meant we were not racing the sun to the other side. The passage was actually so good we made the decision to enter the Abacos via a different inlet than normal just to widen our experience a bit. Rather than enter the traditional Little Harbor Inlet at Lynyard Cay we continued up to North Bar and entered there. It was a non event which is just the way we like new experiences. Some day in a BAD situation we may need an alternative inlet and so now we have that in out back pocket.
We actually left Eleuthera sooner than we had wanted because of some approaching weather so after passing by Hope Town we continued on to Marsh Harbor to top up provisions before finding a quiet anchorage to ride out the next days storm.
We found the perfect little spot about 5 miles to the north-east off Man-O-War Cay. We expected to have good protection from the strongest winds from the NE and most important no other boat anchored near by!
We even arrived Man-O-War with time to head to shore and have some lunch, a little walk and of source and ice cream cone. While we were in town we saw a Moorings Charter Boat circling and looking for a mooring ball. (Mooring is a charter boat company where people rent the boat for a weeks vacation — sometime a little scary because of inexperience yet where most of us started) . As we headed back to Magnolia in Blossom (dinghy) we saw they we outside circling trying to figure out where to anchor. A bit later they found their way over towards us…we waved them over, got them anchored so where in the forcast biggest storm of the year we were anchored and ready to ride it out. As anticipated we were well out of any waves, lite swell wrapping in from the north during tide changes and a maximum of 35 knots though 50 was reported in Marsh Harbor…well boats drug at anchor and why we got out of there.
We were able to score a mooring ball in Hope Town (thank you Jay & Will). Annette quickly connected with her “boat ladies” and they set off on a walk around the island and catching up.
Meanwhile back aboard i made some “engine room dough” for grill pizza. We were happy to host the gang from Exuberant, Pegasus, Ilar, Renaissance Woman, aboard Magnolia . It was a fun evening and always good to spend time together.
A “neighbor” caught some lovely pictures of Magnolia on the ball in Hope Town Harbor.
We met a lovely couple our first season here. J&C were looking to buy a house on the island. One thing lead to another and 2 years ago I was able to help for a few hours lifting and setting some heavy beams. They now have the beautiful cottage with an amazing view. Good people, who worked extremely hard to attain their goals. People who really inspire….so happy for them
Magnolia is the closest boat in the picture.
…and there was ice cream
and walks on the beach
Rod from Pegasus had a BIG birthday while in Hope Town and Mary organized a surprise party. It was a fun evening a great time to catch up.
It was time for Magnolia to get moving and we had one more challenging area before taking on the Gulf Stream. The cut around Whale Cay is very exposed to the ocean and can be very shall we say “rambunctious.” We picked a good day and had no problem.
We always get through the Whale and start looking for the next window to cross the gulf stream. This trip we did make time for a stop at Manjack which is known for the shear numbers of Sea Turtles and HUGE Sea Rays
One thing people do not appreciate about the Bahamas is the variety of “climates” they have…in the south Exumas the country is arid and desert like. Here in the north Abacos there trees and a totally different feel.
There in the middle of the harbour is our trusty steed….and home. Magnolia.
From here we will stop out to Great Sale Cay and depart for the United States from there.
After having a wonderful trip down the Exuma chain we arrived Great Exuma, aka Georgetown, aka “Adult Daycare.”
Great Exuma – Georgetown — Track to Cat
We caught up with Exuberant and enjoyed hanging out with Burt & Prue
After a couple days in “daycare” and topping up on provisions we were off to Cat Island, about 50 miles to the north east.
First stop is one of our favorites in the Bahamas, Fernandez Bay ( https://www.fernandezbayvillage.com ). The anchorage is protected except from the west, there is no west protection on Cat Island! We always meet interesting people and have a great meal…whats not to love?
Prue reminded us it was Fish Fry night in New Bight and also it was Junior Junkanoo ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junkanoo ) night. It was also brought to our attention there were 3 Hylas sailing yachts in the anchorage and only one Krogen….which is completely backwards from normal
In the next couple of days we were expecting a lengthy blow, no significant west winds forecast but plenty of east. We also wanted to get away from the crowds so we would have plenty of anchor room. Bennetts Harbor was the perfect fit. A beautiful beach and easy access to a protected dock. What was not to love and it worked out perfect.
After nearly a weeks slow down in it was off to Eleuthera Island. The trip from Bennetts Harbor Cat Island to Rock Sound CAN be done in one LONG day but why do that? We are suppose to be slowing down. We stopped Little San Salvador Island…known as Half Moon Cay to the Cruise Ship Community.
This particular anchorage is very complicated for me….not to anchor…no not at all super easy, stay out of the way of the ships and get in as close as you can to avoid the North Atlantic swell that is wrapping around the island. First, what they do here is amazing….these ships arrive about dawn…between the two of them what, maybe 10,000 people? They take them all to shore, give them a beach fantasy day to include beach horse back riding and then pile them all back aboard and be underway by supper. An amazing dance in my mind…then I am so very grateful. We get to explore this beautiful island environment for months on end…most of these passenger will be back in hectic world in the next couple days. What we do is not for everyone….but it is not wasted on us…I assure you.
Arriving at the anchorage
Anchored and look out of anchorage
The next morning we departed at first light to be sure we were out of the way of the next arriving ship and sure enough, Carnival Cruise lines was on the horizon….
Morning Traffic
Next Arrival
After that we were off to round the Cape of Eleuthera and up to Rock Sound.
The Cape Of Eleuthera I think has the most beautiful water we have seen.
We arrived in Rock Sound just ahead of the next cold front which was expected to be “sporty” so it was good to be in a secure harbor. Additionally our Bahamian WIFI Hotspot needed a replacement SIM card which was being flown in. We anchored up near the airport and of course the flight arrived as the front was too. I jumped in the dink and beached it a couple hundred yards from the airport, walked into the airport with its typical Bahamian chaos and a hundred arriving tourists. The whole thing was a bit of out of body experience. I picked up my package, raced back to Magnolia and was back on-board to finish my coffee to watch the rain and a rainbow. It made us chuckle about our life a little asking, “I wonder how others day started out?”
Our next and last stop in Eleuthera was Governors Harbor. We had never made time to stop and enjoy and this was our opportunity. What a wonderful stop. We just wish it could have been a couple weeks later so we could have enjoyed a day or two with Stan and Suzie from the The Pearl ( https://sscruisingadventure.blogspot.com ). Schedules seldom align but we keep trying!
We departed Fresh Creek Andros eastbound for Highborne Cay of course into a stiff easterly. Magnolia really showed her metal as we still continue to get to know her. As long as I kept my foot off the pedal she plugged right along just as happy as a boat could be, and we were too. It was a long 5o mile day passage but as good as we could have hoped for.
We have not been in the Bahamas for two years so it was nice to be back in the familiarity of Highborne and the Exumas.
Some fellow Krogenites, MV Unforgettable and Privateer were at Cambridge so we skipped Wardwick Wells and headed on down.
Getting into Cambridge Cay can be a little confusing and maybe a little daunting….once you see a 135ft mega yacht go through…you kind of loose your excuses….
Once in the mooring field this is what awaits….just beautiful.
Cambridge Cay — Bahamas Land and Sea ParkGreg (Privateer) and Scott (Unforgettable) enjoying an evening aboard MagnoliaA wonderful afternoon on the shore on at Cambridge Cay – Off to the Conch Nursery – Thank you Lisa (Privateer) for leading the excursion.
From Cambridge we moved down to Black Point, Exumas
The fish cleaning dock always has a variety of guys coming by for a snack on the leftovers. We don’t dangle our toes in case they get confused!
My work colleague, Pat McWherter whom I knew by name is also aboard a boat making his first trip to the Bahamas. Our mutual friend Byran Metts connected which was really cool
Pat and his crew were heading north as we were heading south and crossed paths here in Black Point.
Orion does not currently have a water maker. Magnolia makes more and stores more than we can possibly need so we were able to give Orion a good fashion style UN-REP (underway replenishment). We enjoyed a couple of cigars and some shared gratitude for the circumstances we find ourselves.
About the time Orion was departing, our friends Scott and Melissa arrived aboard Unforgettable.
A beach walk in search of sea-glass was embarked on.
Magnolia has not been to the Bahamas in the last two winters so we were excited to get going. Our plan has been to depart Palm Beach and work our way to Miami area and cross the Gulf-stream when a weather window presented. Completely unexpected but a window presented just as we departed Palm Beach!
We departed Old Port Cove marina, made a drive-by of our friend Mims Condominium.
Waving to Mims!
We anchored just inside the inlet at Lake Worth / Palm Beach. This was two fold in that we could get an early start out on the ocean but more importantly we really like to have a night on the anchor just to make sure Magnolias Systems are working correctly and it just give us, the crew a chance to get our “head in the game.”
First thing the next morning we headed for the ocean to depart the inlet…we had a momentary delay waiting for a arriving passenger ship…
Traffic – it is always there, cars or ships!
Departing the inlet, directly into the sun. Just down the coast is the is the President’s Mara-Largo estate. I was surprised to find a crashed boat on the beach nearby. I assumed it would have been removed like yesterday. Of course there is always one, out of no-where a sailing catamaran crossed our bow, not overly dangerous at this range but certainly rude. As we were preparing to head east off of Fort Lauderdale we had what appeared to be a decommissioned Navy Ship being towed by a tug. We certainly did not want to cross the bow so we had to turn east earlier than we wanted.
The impact of that action can be easily seen..the force of the gulf stream current carried us north in spite of the fact we were headed due east. Just one more care where you simply cannot fight mother nature!
Gulfs Stream Crossing
We ran along the coast and crossed the Gulf Stream during daylight hours arriving the Bahamas Banks approximately 10:00pm. The Gulf Stream is one experience but the “banks” are another. The Bahama Banks is a vast area of mostly sand covered bottom that is 15-23 feet deep. When the moon is full as it was almost the night of our passage there is enough light to actually see the bottom passing below you. It is a very unique experience for sure.
The lighted cruise ship “took our stern” just as we were arriving the banks. The other two photos show the moon setting as we crossed the banks over night. We arrived Fresh Creek Andros about 30 hours after our departure from Palm Beach, a passage of approximately 210 nm.
The first order of business was to get checked in with Bahamian Customs and Immigration. We accomplished that by taking a taxi out to the Fresh Creek Airport. A meer couple miles away. We wrapped the day up with a Head On Snapper Linner (Late Lunch/Early Dinner) and of course a Ice Cold Bahamian Beer!
Tring out the new “wear-over” sunglasses…its definitely a “look”
Fresh Creek Airport
Arrival “Linner”
The real reason we went to Andros in the first place so the Admiral could visit the Androsia Factory there. She provides a detailed report on our visit here: http://a2baker.com/seamlesssailorblog/
Next to the Exumas and meeting up with friends!!!!
I neglected one of the high points of our visit to Palm Beach. Monday nights at the Old Port Cove Marina Restaurant there is a HIGHLY competitive Game and in-spite of the fact that we did not have a Millennial Teammate, Team Magnolia overcame steep odds and won the $30 dollars in drink coupons! Thank you Mims and Ted & Sally (MV Amici) for jumping and bringing this victory home…
As out time ashore was winding down, we welcomed a mid week visit from the Tennars! We kept ourselves busy with a visit to the McCarthys Wildlife Preserve (http://www.mccarthyswildlife.com/). That toured turned out to be MUCH more fun than imagined.
Tennars Arrive PBI
A little “taste” aboard
Reviewing varnish
Wildlife Sanctuary Visit
Terrific tour guide
Tiger Too
I want to be this guy…lives over a 100 years
While i wrapped up some pre-departure chores, Annette led the Jupiter Lighthouse tour.
Jupiter Lighthouse
Long & Winding Stairs
Enjoying the view
With chores and tours complete it was tie for a stop at the Butcher House…another must stop place added to the list.
Lunch at the Butcher Shop
I am going to do a Varnish wrap up but two lessons learned…1) You do not complete a varnish job…it finishes you…2) Varnish application is an art…I am not yet a artist!!
Starboard Side Varnish
Port Side Varnish
Starboard Side Varnish
Aft Gate Varnish
Mims came for a send off toast! Hopefully we will be seeing her in the Abacos!!!
Annette & Mims — Two beautiful ladies who need a better photographer
We had a wonderful full month in Palm Beach truly enjoying our stay catching up with many people and accomplishing many chores….nex stop, Bahamas!!!
Upon our arrival in Palm Beach I had three major tasks to accomplish. 1) Get the water-maker commissioned/operational. 2) Get cap-rail varnish finished. 3) Complete solar upgrade. I am happy to report everything was accomplished plus we had some surprise guests!!
Soon after arriving Palm Beach, Acadia stopped for a visit which to have a minor “Krogen Rendezvous!” It was great evening!
Getting right to though Tom “The Water-Maker Guy” came out to take a look. The HRO system installed was one of these one button how many ways could this go wrong systems?
Simplified Water-Maker Pallet
Once we got started, it dawned on me this system was exactly the same as every other system on this boat. Top of the line components configured in excessively complicated systems were initially installed. We removed the water-maker, removed all the extra filters and antiquated electronic systems. This left us with a simple system of one switch for each of the two pumps, a pressure valve to control membrane pressure and a spigot. We ended up with a SUPER reliable, SUPER basic system that produces 25 g/hr @161 ppm! a real win for us!
We had a wonderful visit from fellow GenIV’s Jimmy & Katelyn. We love to host GenIVs so keep that in mind….but back to the visit… first stop from the airport was the local beach Tiki Bar so set the tone for the visit,
We were fighting a a dismal rain forecast but that did not dampen the spirits of our crew.
With crew shirts dispersed and appropriate pomp and circumstance Magnolia celebrated our newest crew members….a small and distinguished group.
In spite of the rainy nuisance we visited the Flager Museum ( https://www.flaglermuseum.us/) in Palm Beach. We were not aware of Mr Flagers before we began bringing “The Magnolias” to Florida. I think he single highhandedly developed Florida.
And then…there was the moment of sunshine…during an ice cream break…
It was a wonderful visit and great fun…so many GenIVs yet to visit!!!!
As I did on the sailboat I had installed flexible solar panels on MV Magnolia. I had to wire them different than the sailboat and that was causing the internal diodes to fail. I decide to replace those with some hard-frame 200w panels
I was very happy with the resulting installation and the performance has been terrific.
I did not wan the panels to be “noticeable” from off the vessel and it has worked terrific.
Still more visitors and more projects to be completed! Stay tuned.
